Epilogue

 It’s done, 10,351 miles, 32 States, 15 days.  Mission accomplished.  From a riding point certainly.  But it was more than that.  

After my return I have put myself into home quarantine just to make sure that I didn’t bring an unwanted souvenir  back home with me.  We are still in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic, and especially me, I traveled through some of the new hot spots like South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Missouri, Luisiana, Texas, California (again), but also northern states like Minnesota, Illinois, or Indiana.  It was also to proof that safe traveling through the US is possible, even with the virus around us.  Now I had an advantage, I traveled with a motorcycle in open air, and I camped as much as I could, thus minimizing my interaction with other people.  But I touched a gas pump handle more than fifty times at different places, no problem, hand sanitizer worked great on my hands and gloves as well.  I checked into some motels, no problem, face mask and hand sanitizer during the check in, distance to the receptionist, and disinfection wipes in your room for surfaces you may touch, and all was good.  It was sometimes funny to see how some motel chains are combating COVID-19 through the removal of the in room coffee maker, or removing the free soap bar and shampoo bottles, and of course by eliminating the free continental breakfast in almost every motel I visited.  And as I not always cooked my meal on my gas stove every night, visiting here and there a restaurant (if I found one which was open) was no problem neither. Tables were spaced widely, waitresses wore face masks, everything possible was done to keep you as a customer safe.  And what about interaction with people?  I have to say that most people I met were very much aware of the situation we are currently living in, and were very considerate by keeping social distance and wearing masks.  Just as an example, in Arizona, the day my thermometer was at 120F and couldn’t move further, a couple in an RV at a rest stop was handing me from their fridge two cold water bottles, and wiped them down with a smile and “... you know, the COVID thing ...” before handing them to me.  But of course this was not everywhere the case, South Dakota presented a completely opposite picture.  Most of those riding up to Sturgis wore no face masks, maintained no social distance, had no consideration for the circumstances we live in.  People there were mostly ignorant to the danger it presents not following the simple rules of wash your hand, keep social distance, wear a mask.  And really it as simple as that, as I have successfully proven in those 15 days.

It was a great ride, a safe ride.  I met very helpful people, I met no sign of hate or prejudice, but I met hard working and honest people of different decent, telling me their life, inquisitive about where I come from, where I go, what I do and who I am, and many other things we talked here and there.  I saw a beautiful country again, worth to maintain its beauty for generations to come, for our children to enjoy, and not to destroy it for profits for a few.  After all, there is only one place to live in, and when its gone, so are we.

In finishing, one quote from one of my favorite authors, John Steinbeck:

“I saw in their eyes something I was to see over and over in every part of the nation - a burning desire to go, to move, to get under way, anyplace, away from any Here.  They spoke quietly of how they wanted to go someday, to move about, free and unanchored, not toward something but away from something.  I saw this look and heard this yearning everywhere in every states I visited.  Nearly every American hungers to move.” - Travels with Charley: In search of America

Mile 10,351

 Today is my last day on the road.  I’m leaving Toledo, OH early to make my way toward Cleveland, OH.  Of course it is far to early to pay a visit to the Rock n’ Roll Hall of Fame, but with music from my iPod I take the split from I-90 onto I-80 into Pennsylvania.  I follow the Interstate through some forested areas which keep the air cool and make riding this morning easy.  The more I move eastward the heavier the traffic becomes, and finally in Wilkes-Barre, PA onto Scranton, PA I get hit with the heavy traffic entering I-84.  I continue and cross the Delaware River at Port Jarvis, NY, the Delaware valley we visited last year and definitely a must if you enjoy a nice river valley, and continue through the hills down to the Hudson River to cross at Newburg, NY to the other side.  From here it is old territory through Danbury, CT up to Waterbury, CT and then back home.  The circle is closed after 15 days and 10,351 miles.  Now the bike will be parked, cleaned and repaired where needed, I will have a nice, long shower, a cold beer and a good night sleep.  And then in the next days, when all slowly sets in, I will realize what I have done, re-live some sections of it, and reflect on the many conversations I had with the folks I met, the sceneries I have seen.  Then the whole story will be completed.

“I think the motorcycle is best because it puts you so much in contact with everything.  You experience much more closely the nature of the terrain and almost taste the cultures’ that you’re riding through, but exposes you to the climate and to the wind and rain and it’s a much more complete experience.” - Ted Simon, British travel writer noted for circumnavigating the world twice by motorcycle, author of ‘Jupiter’s Travel’

Mile 9685

 Today was just raking up miles, but I kept it well below the 1,000 miles. But you see what’s driving me, sweet home .....  I leave Sioux Falls, SD and enter the Plains again.  Some miles down the Interstate I enter Minnesota and the road is straight, the sight left, right and front the same.  Only thing to worry about this morning are those dark clouds and streaks of rain I see in the distance.  But I’m pushing the clouds in front of me, almost like the mule and the carrot on the stick in front of him, the mule will never get the carrot, and I never hit the rain.  I follow I-90 into Madison, WI, and dropping down towards the lake area as the rain clouds disappear and a low mist is coming up.  Humidity is immediately rising, and the winds normally around the lake are not present.  It is muggy and hot, and I’m getting soaked in my gear, even though the temps are only in the upper 80’s.  So I descend into Chicago, IL and have to fight my way through downtown as the Express Loop is under construction, and the 7 lane Interstate reduces to 3 lanes.  Thanks god its early Sunday afternoon, and even though traffic is heavy, we are always moving.  Won’t imagine what it looks like tomorrow morning at 8 AM.  Once at the South shore I can enter the Express Way and moving to Michigan City, IN and Toledo, IN is a breeze.  I leave Toledo behind me, and look for a place to call it the day.  Nothing special really today, just miles.  And perhaps my music tip for today, Paul Thorn and his album Tupelo Blue at Niagara Falls.  If you’re interested, here the link: https://gear.bmwmoa.org/products/paul-thorn-greatest-hits-cd

“Chase your dreams, but always know the road that will lead you home again.” - Tim McGraw, American singer, actor and record producer.

Mile 8830

I'm leaving a little later than usual Butte, MT and follow the various rivers like the Jefferson Slough, the Bolder River, and Madison River, and climb my way up to the Continental Divide at about 6,500 ft.  I descend down to Bozeman, MT and wind my way up and down through the mountain ranges and National Forests to Livingston, MT, following the Yellowstone River into Billings, MT, always staying at about 3,000 ft to 4,500 ft elevation.  I see some hot air balloons drifting in the morning breeze against the slowly rising sun and the mountains as their backdrop, what a great way to start the day.  I'm now in the High Plains, and in the territory of the Crow and Northern Cheyenne Nation.  I continue following I-90 to Sheridan, WY and over Buffalo, WY and Gillette, WY into Spearfish, SD.  Sturgis, SD MC valley is on, and the Highway gets more and more crowded with motorcycles heading this way.  Close to Rapid City, SD it's almost a mad house, and besides all the warnings about the COVID-19 pandemic, Sturgis visitors are immune against it.  Social distancing, face coverings, likewise riding without protective gear (hot pants, bikini top and flip-flops at 80 mph, an ER's nightmare) nothing can happen to a Sturgis visitor.  I don't have to do that to myself and continue my way through the Black Hills into the Badlands.  Being out here one shall definitely not miss Wall Drug Store, established 1931, and a tourist attraction ever since.

Wall Drug, SD - The mouse trap in the Badlands

  One gets pointed to it 100 miles before already with huge billboards, and repeated every so often until one reaches the exit.  Once you have survived that, 1880 Town is coming up, a recreation and tourist attraction as well.  

1880 Town, SD

I have seen both before in 2014 on our Alaska trip, and leave them left handed, continuing toward Sioux Falls, SD.  Starting in Murdo, SD I'm stopping at the usual hotel/motel names to find a bed for tonight, but with Sturgis going on, I have no luck until I finally find a place a little outside of Sioux Falls.  Along the way I came across the Dignity Statue in Chamberlain, SD, a native woman standing on a bluff overlooking the Missouri river receiving a star quilt.  A great statue, and I couldn't think of a better place than that. 

Dignity - Chamberlain, SD

A lot of miles today, but great country and lots of history here.  But for now, and it is 10:30 PM when I finally find a place to lay my head down, for now I close the day.

"Hear me, my chiefs!  I'm tired.  My heart is sick and sad.  From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever." - Chief Joseph, leader of the Way-lam-wat-kain band of the Nez-Perce tribe (Pacific Northwest tribe)

Mile 7857

 This morning I wake up to rather chilling temperatures.  I completely underestimated the change in climate up here in the Pacific mountains, and I have already double layers on.  Anyway I leave Leavenworth, WA and follow the Wenatchee river with the sun just not being high enough to illuminate the valley.  I turn following the Columbia river along the Entiat lake, one of the basins where peaches and cherries grow, and which is proof that "water grows food".  But rather than following the Columbia river to the Grand Coulee Dam, I turn East at Orondo, WA and run into the blinding morning sun.  Wherever I look there are only grain fields all around me, Washington State, the bread basket.

I go up the mountains to the Banks Lake and Coulee City, and continue to Spokane, WA.  From here I follow Interstate I-90 to Coeur d' Arlene and follow along the lake.  Unfortunately the Hwy is under renovation and a stop at the photgrapher point is not possible.  Anyway, here a picture from a previous visit:

From here I'm climbing up again into the mountains, and it is getting chilling cold.  I can't remember having ridden my bike on August 8th, with having had my grip and seat heating on full power.  Anyway, I climb to elevations of over 4,000 feet and can't complain as I love every mile of this winding and turning mountain pass.  But all the joy comes to a sudden end as I encounter a sudden and strong wobble in my front tire.  I have to stop shortly after I have passed the Lookout Pass.  Now again, my $59 per year membership to Road America becomes very handy, and Road of America is sending me a tow truck to pick me up and bring me to Missoula, MT, the nearest H-D dealer to take care of my patient.  My suspicion of another wheel bearing failure turns out to be a blow out on the rear tire, with a hole about the size of a penny, which I must have encountered somewhere along this many road constructions at the Lookout Pass, together with a damage to the front wheel.  Many cudos to the guys at Grizzly Harley-Davidson in Missoula, and Bob from Services in particular, who where already waiting for me to arrive and took the bike immediately in to the shop for repair.  In and out in less than two (2) hours, that's what I call a great, great service on traveling folks like me.  With still some daylight left I continue my path towards Billing, MT, but decide to stay further out of Sturgis, SD as the 2020 rally is going on and finding a place to put my head down may become very difficult and expensive, besides the point that social distancing and any consideration about COVID-19 is ignored.  So I call it the day in Butte, MT a former copper mining town, declining to nothing because of the lack of interest in a once major city in the West.

One of the many Copper Mine Shafts in Butte, MT

It is like in many of the historic towns in the US, the lack of interest in preserving the history which built this country is eaten away by deterioration and the decline of the city around it, and history will be gone forever.  Without its presence we will not remember and know what our heritage is, and become a nation of anonymous people.

I have had a very mixed day, but besides the difficulties today, I met many very helpful people, helping me bringing my bike to the shop, repairing it, and getting me back on the road again, even tonight having a beer and something to eat conversing with Tony the man at the taps, and the other folks telling me their stories.  Live is sometimes hard, but all in all it can be so much more easier if we just are open to each other, listen to the other one's story, and throw prejudice over board.  I met today so many people, very kind and helpful, if this continues every day, the world will and must be a better place.  Believe in it, I do.

"It is on your hands to build a better world for all who live in it." - Nelson Mandela anti-apartheid revolutionary, political leader and philanthropist who served as President of South Africa from 1994 to 1999. 

Mile 7415

 I'm getting up this morning and it rather chilly out there.  Today is definitely double layer under the riding gear.  There are still low hanging clouds in the mountains here in Roseburg, OR and it looks like that I might be in for a shower here and there.  I like this area, as many others in Oregon, the mountains, the ocean air coming up the coastal range, and forests with their diverse trees.  And with the mist and the daylight breaking only here and there through, Tolkin would have liked this place too.  But all the fun is over when I hit Eugene, OR, as those lovely clouds open their gates.  I slip into my rain gear, as there is no easing in sight and drive on.  By the time I reach Portland, OR I know that also rain gear is not water tight, and diverse body parts are getting soaked.  By the time I hit Tacoma, WA I don't care anymore about the rain, and when I reach Seattle, WA the weather man was right on, 11:00 AM rain was the forecast, I was there, it started to rain.  I wonder how they do that, down to the hour?  Anyway, my target is another 110 miles further North, Blaine, WA to get my last check mark.  And once again, the weather man said it would stop at 12, and so it did.  Finding the post office was not difficult in this town of 4,000 something, and with that I concluded the four corners of the lower USA.  I took me exactly 6,624 miles to connect those four points, a bit more than 7,100 miles considering riding to the start point as well.

Last check-in, Blaine, WA

But there is no time to waste, as the black clouds are rolling in from the South.  I turn my bike East and change my plans and skip riding through the Northern Cascades, which I always wanted to do, but also this time I have to detour and follow the lighter pattern in the clouds.  I backtrack on I-5 south to about Everet, WA and join Hwy-2, my all time favorite going over the Stevens Pass (a monument of him is at Hwy-2 at the summit of Marias Pass) on the South side of the Cascades.  

John Frank Stevens - American Civil Engineer
(Great Northern Railway & Panama Canal)

This is now the third time that I follow this road, and I have done both directions, and still thinks it is one of the best in the US.  My decision to take this route is rewarded with the sun breaking the clouds and shining in to the valley and onto the mountains.  What a great picture to finish the day.  I stop in Leavenworth, WA, the Bavarian Alpine Village, a town which reinvented itself when the wood industry declined, and now a major tourist attraction in this region.  I celebrate the day with a Mass Bier and a Bratwurst at one of the Bavarian sausage places.

"I still have a long way to go, but I'm already so far from where I used to be, and I'm proud of that." - unknown

Mile 6755

It's another early morning for me, I don't bother to adjust to the new time zone anymore, as I will be heading East soon again, so why upsetting my inner clock.  I leave Oceanside outside of San Diego, CA at about 4:30 AM and hit Santa Ana, CA at about quarter past five.  If you have seven (7) highway lanes and you have crawling traffic at 5:30 AM, than I don't want to know what it is at 8 AM.  I'm happy that I'm that early, even though the temperatures are quite nippy at about mid fifties, I better should have put my hoodie on.  Too late, I don't want to encounter the morning commute traffic in Long Beach or Los Angeles and move on.  I pass my former place of action in Long Beach and Burbank, in both places I built some HRSG when we lived in California, and see some heavy mist hanging over the city of angels.  I continue my way to Pasadena and Glendale, and move into the Santa Monica Mountains and the San Fernando Valley.  Once passing Santa Clarita, CA I climb into the mountains again over the Tejon Pass and into the valley, or the dust bowl as the locals call it.  Drooping into the valley I leave the mist behind me and temperatures start immediately to rise.  With Bakersfield, CA on my right, and Streets of Bakersfield from Dwight Yoakam & Buck Ownes on my lips (having lived in Bakersfield you must know this song by heart), I pass another two places I know very well from my HRSG days then, Buttonwillow, and McKittrick.  Not very much has changed, except Buttonwillow has a Starbucks now, besides all the cotton bails.  This is really the country John Steinbeck was writing about, dust and more dust, thats all what exists here, unless you bring water to it.  And that's one of the big differences I see today, many of the aqueduct canals are dry, and so is the land.  Very much to the enjoyment when you like to see dirt devils build up and run over the barren land.

That's what it is all about since the creation of this State, 

or perhaps even before than, water, and who gets it

  I continue North and pass places I know very well like Wasco, CA, Coalinga, CA or the bigger places like Fresno, CA or San Jose, CA.  At about Modesto, CA I start to fight gusty winds which make me and some big rigs make use of the full width of the Interstate.  This is an exercise for Arnold S., but not for me.  I make my way through Sacramento, CA and have of course another song in my head, remember Middle of the Road, the good day when we where young, ....  After Sacramento I enter the Sacramento Valley with more gusty winds (thank you Lorraine for your wishes, but the sailor is fighting heavily to stay on course), I finally make it to Redding and into the mountains again.  Temperatures have risen already to the 100's in the valley, so the mountains are very welcome.  I climb up to the Shasta mountain, pass, lake, and the scenery is just breath taking.  I like this place, if there weren't those big black clouds moving in from the West.  And sure enough, descending to Mount Shasta, CA those clouds are unloading all they carried over the mountains.  This only means one thing, ride farther to get dry again.  But before I got drenched I had a marvelous view of the Castle Crags, a mountain formation I have not seen before, or perhaps only in the Dolomites in Italy.  Spectacular is only poorly describing this view.  

That range is something to come back for.  I continue further North on this spectacular, winding up and down Interstate, climbing to 4,000 ft, dropping down to 3,000 ft, climbing up again and dropping again to 1,800 ft, and up and down, left and right, it is just plain fun to ride this road in such a nice setting, and especially with the evening sun illuminating the mountains.  I will add this section to my America's Best Roads.  Nevertheless in Roseburg, OR I have finally enough, I'm tiered from fighting the gusty winds, feeling somehow cold now, and looking forward to a hardy meal.  So I call it quit, when I see again a motel at a rate cheaper than a tent site would cost me for the night.  A no brainer for me, the old bones say thank you.

"What good is the warmth of the summer, without the cold of the winter to give it sweetness." - John Steinbeck, Travels with Charley: In Search of America

 

Mile 5854

My inner clock is still ticking Eastern time, and so I wake up at 4 AM this morning.  Since I'm awake I can also pack and hit the road, making some miles before the heat sets in.  I'm leaving El Paso, TX  with a full moon shining from the Mexican side, and making it quite pleasantly to leave town.  Soon I hit my yesterday's target of Las Cruces, NM and continue into the barren country.  Soon I see the sun rising in my rearview mirrors and with the moon still up it makes a nice  light over the prairie.  A coyote is trotting on the shoulder, and birds of prey are sitting on the power poles looking for their breakfast.  After passing the Shakespeare Ghost Town, and the Steins Railroad Ghost Town, I'm running into Benson, AZ.  But I'm far too early to hang around for the usual shootout at Tombstone at noon, and continue to Tucson, AZ.  The landscape by now is only dessert, sand, cacti, some brush, and rocks.  Also with the sun rising, the temperatures do too, and my thermometer on the bike for the air temperature is hitting the right hand limit, so we have 120F or more.  I have to stop almost every 60 to 80 miles to cool down and gulp down Gatorade and water, and cool my head and neck by pouring water over it.  It has the effect like an air conditioner when the air through the helmet vents flows over your head.  It lasts about 30 to 40 minutes, then the hair and helmet liner are dry again and I start the process over again.

The view never changes - somewhere along I-10 / I-8

Interesting enough, the US Custom and Border Patrol has set up several mobile check points, like mini border crossings, where every vehicle gets checked.  Before I reach San Diego, CA, this will happen three times to me.  Anyway, after Yuma, AZ, and now I know why in the Wild West Yuma was such a feared location, there is simply nothing than dust, sand, and heat, I come to the mountains.  Very quickly I'm up at 3,000 ft at Jacumba, CA, going even a bit higher to 4,000 ft further west, and what a difference that already makes. 10F to 15F makes it so much more pleasant, and when depending down into El Cayon, CA and La Mesa, CA, I can feel the see breeze already.  Talking about breeze, this mountain range is high wind area, and so it is plastered with hundreds of wind generators.  I remember those huge fields of Windturbines when we came first time to California in 2000, it was somehow a sign "you are in California now". Anyway, I also passed a solar farm, about 2 miles long, and I couldn't see the end of the depth from the Interstate.  I also passed a solar thermal plant at Gila Bend, AZ, interesting as they are not using a tower design but are a parabolic through plant.  On top they  using molten salt thermal energy storage.  Very impressive this plant.

Gila Bend, AZ - Solana Power Generation Station

At about 3:30 PM I finally make it down to San Ysidro, CA and this time I'm really carful not to get into the wrong lanes and ending up in Mexico.  Figure it wouldn't be that easy as at the Canadian border to come back into the US again.  But I'm learning, and finally find my check point, the San Ysidro post office.

3 out of 4 ain't bad - better than Meat Loaf who only made "2 out of 3 ain't bad"

Quickly got a gas receipt and then turned my bike North and onto I-5 toward Las Angeles, CA.  But reaching the outskirts of San Diego I decided otherwise, and looked for a nice place which I found near Oceanside, north of Carlsbad, CA.  That leaves me with a short run to LA tomorrow morning, up the Grapevine into the California's dust bowl and up to Sacramento, CA and perhaps over the state line into Oregon.  Big day today, but the finishing line is near.  Hope it won't be as hot as today again.  And I'm missing my riding buddy, not the same without you.

"I love you not for what you are, but for what I am when I'm with you." - Erich Fried (Roy Croft), Austrian Poet

Mile 5058

This morning I want to take care at first of my faulty ignition switch.  Yesterday I called already the Harley shop and got an answering machine telling me their office hours are Mon thru Sat from 9 AM to 6 PM.  So I’m at the Javelina H-D in Boerne, TX at 8 AM just to make sure that I’m the first in line.  Strange the gate to the lot is still closed and a huge lock and chain is in place, but since I’m so early I don’t think of it very much.  When at 8:30 there are no signs of anybody preparing fro business I jump the gate and sneak around the shop.  Here I find at the service door a sign that they are closed on Sundays and Mondays.  Wonder who was in charge of updating the phone message.  So this dealership gets definitely a thumbs down from me.

With almost three hours lost of riding time, I finally make it then onto I-10 toward El Paso, TX, the next destination for a H-D dealer who perhaps can take care of my problem.

The sky is hung close with gray clouds, keeping the sun away and riding is quite comfortable.  Off course is I-10 again a huge construction around San Antonio and Boerne, but after that it becomes a very good conditioned Interstate, with a speed limit of 80 mph.  The landscape I’m passing through is nicely going up and down, and the vegetation reminds me very much of that in the Bushveld in South Africa, low trees, brush, cacti, and sisal.  There is not very much grass, and cattle have a hard time to find and enough to eat.  At about Sonora, TX it starts to rain, and as I come closer to this stretch I drive through the middle of it, left and right of the Interstate it is raining, and I’m riding through the middle dry.  I can’t help to think about Moses dividing the sea.  At Ft. Stockton, TX the cloud cover finally disappears completely, and the sun is baking me now with brute force.  Temperatures immediately rise to over 100, and the landscape also changes immediately.  Everything becomes more barren, the sparse vegetation makes room for more cacti and sand.  With the Rio Grande to the left, and the Guadeloupe mountains to the right, I’m making my way into El Paso, TX.  I didn’t like the city 20 years ago when we passed through on our move from TX to CA, and it hasn’t changed.  The Interstate becomes again a construction site with new on and off ramps and bridge overs, but the town is still a spaghetti I haven’t figured out.  I find the Barnett H-D dealership and spend another almost three hours in there to get the bike halfway fixed.  Even though those folks could help me to some extend, they also do not get an attaboy from me.  Hope the fix will last till I can bring the bike to my trusted mechanics at home.  Anyway, leaving the dealership at about 6 PM I was still determined to reach Las Cruces, NM but could not reject a road sign for a proper bed and shower for the same price a camp site would cost me, so I call it the day.

Impression of the day is the heavily guarded and fortified border to the southern neighbor.  The formerly border between West and East Germany was nothing compared to this “monster”.  I wonder what that is all about, what is it keeping out, or what is it keeping inside?  I hear the words of Ronald Reagan telling Mikhail Gorbachev “... tear this wall down.” in my head, and think perhaps that could be a better way.  But not in my life time anymore.

“Men build too many walls and not enough bridges.” - Joseph Fort Newton, American Baptist Minister

Mile 4469

I left Milton, FL this morning pretty early, as my inner clock is still ticking East Coast, but I’m one hour later here.  Anyway, the air is crisp and in no time I pass Pensacola, FL to hit into Alabama.  Immediately the song “Sweet home Alabama”, the state motto as well, comes to my mind and before I can remember all the words of this song and finish singing it, I’m in Louisiana.  I like this area, riding over all those bridges and elevated highways through the swamps, it is a great scenery.  Many birds are around, seeing many fish eagles and herons, and water fouls, and many others.  I’m reaching New Orleans, LA very early, too early for a Gumbo in Bourbon Street, a cool drink, and some good Jazz. So my iPod has to do, and I’m switching to Zydeco, the French-Creole music which developed down here in Southwest Louisiana.  I cross over some more bridges and Bayous, and have to change my music again as I’m approaching Baton Rouge, LA.  Here comes Garth Brooks with “Calling” Baton Rouge, and just as the song finishes I traveling over an 18 mile long bridge (Key West only has a 7 mile bridge) into Lafayette.  Little bit west of here we are now running out of the Bayous but with Lake Charles we have some more water around us.  Up to here I-75 and I-10 have been in immaculate condition, but this immediately changes coming into Texas.  Everything is bigger in Texas, and so are the construction sites.  It appears that I-10 is only one huge construction, and I’m happy after I have Beaumont, TX and Houston, TX behind me.  But the ride is not over yet, and at a tank stop about 70 miles east of San Antonio, TX switching off the engine my ignition switch falls in pieces.  Here I have a spring, a disk, a shaft, the knob, and have no idea on how to get that back into the steering head.  After about half an hour trial and error, I have a concoction ready to give me an ignition light and I can move on.  So all the time made up today will be spend tomorrow to find a workshop and a technician who knows how to put it properly together, If I can start the bike again 🤔.  Anyway, I also have to work on my new Schuberth helmet, as the inner anti fog visor as become detached, something which shouldn’t happen neither.  But all in all a good day, lots of nice scenery in Alabama and Louisiana, not so great in Texas.  I’m still sticking with my plan to make it to Las Cruces, NM tomorrow, we’ll see.

“You may not control all of the events that happen to you, but you can decide not to be reduced by them.” - Maya Angelou, American poet, memoirist, and civil rights activist

Mile 3695

I’m on my way to the Southwest corner of the US, but first I have to make the long haul up to the Northwestern part of Florida.  Traffic on the west side of the state is this morning light, moderate around the big cities like Fort Meyers, Tampa, Gainesville, or the state capitol Tallahassee.  Interesting, as I left Naples on my way to I-75 I passed nine (9) golf courses on a stretch of about 5 miles only.  Wonder who needs that many golf courses.  Anyway, progressing North the palm trees disappear, and pine and cypresses take over the landscape.  Other than that, it is just raking up the miles, figure that will be the game for the next couple of days.  And since I have nothing better to do, I think about the current state in the light of COVID-19.  I still see many people in this state here, especially in the service and retail business not wearing face masks, people giving handshakes and hugging each other, standing around in groups as if the virus is non existent.  I don’t know what those people don’t understand, more than 7,000 dead, and more than 480,000 infected in this state, 4.7Mio and more than 157,000 dead in this country.  But the people out here continue as if COVID-19 happens in another place.  As a matter some people look strange at you when you wear a face mask, or sanitize your hands.  I really thought by now everybody got the message, reality proofs me wrong.  Let’s see if the picture changes again as I go West.

And of course I had to stop at a Harley Shop, as my beloved high-vis vest has come to the end of its useful life.  After more than 7 years and more than 60,000 miles in sun, wind, and rain, the elements have worn it out.

R.I.P. in Milton, FL

Tomorrow will be a long day, as I try to pass through some potential traffic hot spots i.e. Houston, TX and San Antonio, TX so I don't have to deal with them on Monday morning.  So if you don't see a blog tomorrow, I most probably just collapsed on my mattress.

"Nothing in the world is more dangerous than sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity." - Martin Luther King Jr.

Mile 3069

Today we will see if my efforts of yesterday will give the rewards I hoped for.  I leave Miami at the crack of dawn and make my way South on the last stretch of I-95 joining Hwy-1, also named Dixie Hwy, wonder how long that will last.  But the story of the Dixie Hwy is for some other time.  Today I will reach my second control point in Key West, and thanks god I left that early, because the 3-1/2 hours I estimated for the approx. 166 miles are plastered with gazillions of traffic lights, half of which I find red.  But as the sun comes up I'm already near Homestead, FL and make my way to the Keys.  Key Largo is somehow disappointing, I had more the picture of grass roofed buildings along white sandy beaches, but I find one Marina after the other, and even more resorts.  From here I continue to Islamorada on a partially two lane Hwy, before Hwy-1 completely turned into a single lane.  Traffic is relatively light, and so I'm in no time over the 7-mile bridge, and into Key West.

7-Mile Bridge, to the right the old one

In Key West, business first and proof of arrival at my second check-point.  From there to the southernmost point on the continental US.  And it is confirmed, you can not see Cuba from here, even though its only 90 miles away.  Driving around Key West is no fun, as traffic is so slow that pedestrians are making more progress than one in a car or me on the bike.  And since I have seen enough during my search efforts to find those two points, I get my gas filled up and head my way back North.  What a nightmare this was.  Did it take me about 4 hours from Miami to get down here, it took me over five (5) hours to get only to Key Largo (97 miles).  Main culprits are the big pick-up trucks with their boot trailers crawling along, and of course the construction on the Hwy doesn't make it better.  It's midday now, I'm running hot, the bike is running hot, and whilst passing another traffic stop on the shoulder the law caught me.  Now I owe a piece of this Hwy too.

Since my return from Key West took much longer than I thought, I change the plan (again!) and cross the Everglades over to Naples, FL.  And this stretch through the Everglades along the Alligator Alley and through the Big Cypress Nature Preserve compensates for all the sweat coming up Hwy-1.  Unfortunately are all the camp sites in the Everglades currently closed, so no cuddling with the gator.  But I will definitely return and try one of those Air Boots, they must be fun to fly over the swamp and maybe over a tail too.  Btw, just to proof what the heat does to you, how many words do you know with "gator" in it, like Gatorade, of course Alligator, Irrigator, Navigator, Mitigator, Litigator, Obligator, Investigator, Instigator, and how much more?  Anyway, that's what you do sitting in traffic jams in the Keys.

Tomorrow I turn Northwest, and make my way to the third checkpoint.  Two in the bag, two more to go.

"Natives of the Florida Keys often refer to themselves as Conchs, and for good reason: They have been drinking." - Dave Barry, out of Best.State.Ever.: A Florida Man Defends His Homeland

Mile 2650

Woah, what a day.  

“No plan is a good plan”, so the title of an adventure movie from Ramona & Herbert Schwarz which in fact turned out very well for them.  But for me today, I better have a plan.  Tropical storm Nine is moving into Florida and I need the check point mark of Key West, otherwise my best plan is worth nothing.  I can not risk that the storm picks up and the bridge / causeway is getting closed because of too high winds.  So the original idea of only going to Jacksonville, FL has been extended to reach at least Orlando, FL  I’m up as usual before the sun rises, have my coffee and break down camp.  By 6:00 AM I’m on the road, and there is a low cloud cover and mist hanging over North Carolina.  It is quite pleasant as the temperatures are rather on the cooler side, and riding is a breeze.  There is hardly any traffic and the miles are just flying by.  Crossing into South Carolina the sun hasn’t yet broken through the clouds, and it will stay this way into Georgia.  The Interstate is in good condition and makes good for its disastrous end up North.  Moving through Georgia at about Savanah I can see the first blue spots in the sky, and what looked rather promising turned out become deep black clouds further South.  Have I gotten till now only here and there some sprinkles, crossing into Florida the heavens opened up in Jacksonville, FL.  I got drenched down to the bone till Daytona Beach, at which point I decided I have to ride much further than Orlando to get dry again.  After Daytona the sun brook through, and it stayed that way until I called it quit in Miami.  Nevertheless it was an interesting ride through the swamps of Georgia, I listened perfectly suited Tony Joe White and his typical Swamp Rock/Blues music.  Have to listen to it again when going through the Bayou. I also have to say that when the sun shines in Florida, it looks exactly like the postcards, palm trees, huge and nicely manicured resorts, lush green everywhere, wide empty parkways, blue waters, neat and white building, and blue skies, but when it rains, it is exactly like New England, miserable.  So let’s hope that my efforts today will be rewarded in reaching Key West tomorrow morning, and than I will turn around and head North before TS Nine will hit the peninsula.  It was a long day, but not so bad after all.

PS:  Did I mention that if you thought the drivers in New York are crazy, the ones in Florida even more.  Speed limits and lane markings are just for the out of Staters.  If you’re going 80, and getting passed by a Semi, and this one getting passed by another car, and this one too, then you know You’re in Florida.  Of course no problem with that kind of racing on 4 to 6 lane Interstates.  But not my kind of cookie.

“When it rains, it pours.  When it pours you get wet down to the bone.  When you wet to the bone you have to ride farther to get dry again.” - me

Mile 1788

I'm up again at sunrise to avoid the major traffic here in New England i.e. Hartford, New York, and New Jersey.  But I'm not that lucky.  When I had boredom yesterday morning up in Northern Maine, I had all the traffic of yesterday morning on the first two/three miles here on I-91 going South.  But that was easy compared to what awaited me in New York on I-95.  Besides that the Interstate is in a desolate condition, I think at the end of the trip I need to have the front fork inspected, and for the rest of the trip I hope the wheel bearings didn't get abused too much, but this Interstate is in need of major work.  Adding to the condition is the never easing up traffic and the stop and go through the Bronx, leading up to George Washington bridge.  What a nightmare, after I had crossed the bridge I was in for the New Jersey traffic until I hit the NJTP.  Here I got some breathers until I hit Philadelphia, PA, and then again another stop and go in Baltimore, MD.  I know why I hate this Interstate, and today I was reaffirmed.  But there are nice things along this terrible I-95 as well, in particular I like all those old iron bridges you need to cross, and of course the harbor in Philadelphia (Penn's Landing) and the Baltimore harbor.  But it's time to move on, I still have to get around Washington, DC into Virginia and onto North Carolina.  Specially in VA I can't make up any time, I have my experience with the law there.  But things are moving better than expected and upon entering Virginia traffic eases a lot.  Some light rain showers are hitting me, making the sticky air even more heavier, and I'm soaked inside my gear, sweating like a fish.  I finally make it to Rocky Mount, NC and call it the day.  All in all some good mileage, and once again friendly people everywhere I stopped.

                                        

T03 - My room for tonight

"The past exists only in our memories, the future only in our plans.  The present is our only reality."  - Robert M. Pirsig, American author and philosopher, known for his book 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance'.

Mile 1178

I’m up again very early, making use of the cool, crisp air this morning.  There is still some low fog over the St, John valley, and the sun has difficulties burning the haze away.  With a pleasant 60 something degree I’m basically backtracking my way of yesterday, of course without the detour to Canada.  The roads are still empty, and after getting my official time stamp in form of a gas receipt at the Madawaska Gulf gas station, the clock starts ticking for me.  Before it is 7:30 AM I have had already three showers going down on me, but there is some silver (sun) lining further south.  The sun fighting to break through the fog and mist over the St. John river and over the potato fields that early in the morning is such a peaceful picture that I could sit down and watch to see who wins the fight.  But I have some distance to cover.  After going through Presque Isle, ME the weather gets better, and the sun is burning the rain clouds and fog away.  By the time I reach I-95 it’s getting hot, and it stays like this all the way south.  Traffic is still light, or better none existing, as for the next two hours or so I see not a single car in my direction.  I get a little bit more around Bangor, ME and then around Portland, ME, but until I circle Boston, MA it is easy going.  From here onward it is the usual driving, and early afternoon I’m at my house for one last rest stop, a cool shower, and sleeping in my own bed, before departing tomorrow morning again on my way to Key West, FL.

“You never really travel alone.  The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you.” - Unknown

Mile 603

This morning I left home early to ride up to Madawaska, ME, the official starting point of my 4 Corner USA Run.  Going north on I-91 onto I-90 and I-495 in the early morning hours was no problem, and before I knew it I was circling Boston and was on my way to I-95 which should bring me to the Canadian border.  Of course as always when I'm traveling, the weather changed from hot, to hot and rainy, to muggy and heavy air, to rain again.  Just enough time in-between to almost dry out, so you could get soaked again.  Perhaps this was the reason that I missed the turn on to Hwy-1 going North, but instead I was on the "no turn anymore" allowed traffic lanes into Canada.  The boarder officer was nice and allowed me to cross over their parking lot, handing me back my ID and allowed me to back enter the USA.  And the officer at the US side had a big smile when I told him my story and told me I missed the exit about 3 miles before coming to the border.  Anyway, we had a good chit-chat, and also he let me in again, and then I was up on my way to Madawaska, the Northeastern starting point of my journey.

Leaving home - not the same without my buddy

The only moose I saw today - Van Buren, ME at the International Bridge

Got my photo proof, will get my tank slip tomorrow morning, and then the clock starts ticking for me.  If everything goes like today, it should be a breeze again going back to where I came from today.  Roads up here are great, good conditions, and hardly no traffic.  Fun to ride up here.

"Jobs fill your pocket, but adventures fill your soul." - Jamie Lyn Beatty, American singer and actress

Cabin Fever

The COVID-19 pandemic is holding its grip on our daily life for now over six month, and so far I have been good with taking all precautions possible.  But home is getting small, my home office is feeling more and more like solitary confinement, and the view out the window doesn't change very much neither, even though there is no snow out there anymore like in February when I moved into this room here the first time.  It is summer now, and thanks god some outdoor life can take place.  But the patio is no substitute for the wide open countryside, for the cool and crisp air of the mountains, the scorching heat of the dessert, the smell of the redwood forest, the salty spray from the ocean.  I'm missing that a lot, very much.  And so the idea manifested over the last days that the only remedy to the developing cabin fever is to get out and onto the open road.  If I would ride a motorcycle I can minimize the contact with people, have the greatest possible social distance, and using a tent instead of motels and hotels further minimizing  the amount of contacts.  And as for the route, this is pretty simple, I will attempt to ride to all four corners of the lower 48.  That means my route will take me from Madawaska, ME to Key West, FL, to San Ysidro, CA, to Blaine, WA and back home.  And to add some spice to the effort, I want to do all that in less than 21 days.

There are still some last preparations needed, the gear to be checked, including my new one person tent (quick to set-up in less than two minutes) and the bike be packed.  If all goes well, I shall be on the road in a few days, and you hopefully following me and my thoughts along the way, as the wolve travels again.

"There are some places in life where you can only go alone.  Embrace the beauty of your solo journey." - Mandy Hale, American author, blogger and speaker