Mile 5226

We leave Eureka, CA this morning with several layers of our clothing on, as temperatures are in the low 50's, and fog and mist hanging low over the coast.  We follow Hwy 101 into the Redwood N.P. and S.P. and are still impressed by the size and age of those tree.  Imagine they were already standing there before even Columbus discovered the continent, before Julius Caesar conquered Europe, if those trees could only talk.  We follow the coastline and contrary to the days before, today the sky cleared and we can see the rugged Oregon coast.  It is everything of what we imagined through the glimpses of mist from the past days, and with the gusty high winds the ocean is really pushed hard against the shore.  The white capped waves breaking at the rocks in the ocean is a sight I could watch for hours.  But we push on encouraged by the nice weather and pass through countless State Parks and along Beaches, one nicer than the other.  Exhausted from working against the high winds all afternoon we call it the day in Florence, OR.

Meeting my friend in Eureka, CA, a little taller than me.

Could drive through those woods for hours on no end, Redwood N.P.

Oregon Shoreline Impressions below

Coming into harbor at Coos Bay, OR

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area

"Nature is ever at work building and pulling down, creating and destroying, keeping everything whirling and flowing, allowing no rest but in rhythmical motion, chasing everything in endless song out of one beautiful form into another." - John Muir

Mile 4948

We left Jenner, CA this morning once again with temperatures in the low 50's and a thick mist on this side of the ocean.  We continue on Hwy 1 and wind our way up and down through thousands of curves, bends, and switchbacks, and one more time I think that the "Tail of the Dragon" is well overrated.  The scenery with the mist over the land and rolling constantly in from the ocean reminds me very much to the Scottish Highlands.  We pass one after the other State Parks, Bays and Beaches, too many to remember, and one more beautiful than the other.  Unfortunately we don't see too much of this rugged coast line as the mist is still hanging low, but the glimpses we get are impressive.  This is definitely one of our favorite scenic roads in the US.  We must stop several times to warm up with a hot coffee and finally reach Fort Bragg at lunch time.  We continue following the Coast Ranges on the west side and reach early afternoon Hwy 101 in Legget, CA.  Moving on to the east side of the ranges the temperature increases to the upper 90's and we are shedding clothes, only to put them on again as we approach Eureka at the coast leaving the Humboldt Redwoods S.P.  Those Redwoods are incredible trees, more than 300 ft tall, resistant to many of the California forrest fires, and thousands of years old.  I hope those forests will be resistant to all what we throw at them, and that they will continue for another thousand years or more for all our children and theirs to see.

Today is the day of trees, and they come in all shapes:

... and when the mist cleared, the view was just spectacular:

"Any fool can destroy trees.  They can not run away; and if they could, they would still be destroyed." - John Muir, Save the Redwoods

Mile 4710

We leave Pacifica a little later as usual as we just want to go to Lincoln Park to the Western terminus of the Lincoln Hwy, just opposite the Legion of Honor Memorial. Traffic into San Francisco isn’t too bad, but we have to search in the park for the Lincoln Hwy marker.  Can you believe it, they set a bus stop booth right in front of it, so it is hidden from direct view.  Too little credit for such a historic point, what a shame.  We also pay a visit to the Legion of Honor Memorial, and the Hollocaust Memorial, before we follow the bay to the Fisherman’s Wharf for some strolling around and some unbelievable big lobster rolls.
Well after midday we cross the Golden Gate Bridge, with the roadway clear and the pylons in the mist to enter Sausalito and find California Hwy 1 at Tamalpais Valley Junction. We follow the Hwy up to and then through Muir Woods State Park and the Tamalpais State Park back to Stinson Beach over a lot of switchbacks and a very curvy road.  My thoughts, who needs the “Tail of the Dragon”, come to Northern California and ride Hwy 1 or its bypasses, much more curves, less traffic.  We continue on Hwy 1 and follow the Bolinas Lagoon, through the Five Brooks Forrest and along the Tomales Bay to Bodega Bay and Jenner.  It is one of the most scenic roads we’ve ever traveled, just a pity that the weather is not more cooperative as temperatures have dropped to the mid 50’s, and the sun is also hiding again behind the coastal mist which is rolling in.

So we call it the day in Jenner, CA and enjoy a very good dinner at the River's End to celebrate Elke's birthday.  Not a lot of miles today, but challenging riding on Hwy 1.

We reached the Western Terminus of the Lincoln Highway 

A must when in San Francisco, Fishermans Wharf, and the best Lobster in town at Guardino's

Mist in the bay, crossing the Golden Gate Bridge

Point Reyes Nat'l Shoreline coming down from Mt. Tamalpais S.P.

Russian River at Jenner, CA

"That men may not forget, the living legion, in convention, speaking in comradeship with the dead, again voice their love for those who gave their lives that we might be free." - Plague at the Legion of Honor Memorial

Mile 4607

This morning we left San Luis Obispo with low hanging clouds and fog over the ocean, and rather cool temperatures which make us put on our hoodies and riding jackets.  Making our way on the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) to Morro Bay to see the famous rock (not this morning) and through San Simeon, CA we discover shortly after Hearst Castle the Hwy 1 will be closed without detour.  So we turn back to Cambria to pick up Hwy 46 and turn into the mountains and sunshine, joining Hwy 101 in Paso Robles to Salinas, CA.  Once again you see all around you what John Steinbeck was writing about the dust and heat of California, and the smell of the strawberry harvest, the salads and other produce is ever present in this part of the country.  We leave Hwy 101 in Salinas to join again the PCH in Monterey, pass by an old work place of mine in Moss Landing and continue North.  Temperatures again are much lower at the coast, and as every day, the gusty winds have picked up around lunch time and making riding some sort of difficult.  But the rugged coast line gives a great scenery but I have to keep my eyes on the road as the gently winding road demand full attention.  We continue on to get closely to San Francisco in order to pass it  tomorrow without too much hazard (hopefully).  In Pacifica, CA, about 10 miles south of S.F. we call it the day, and enjoy the evening at the coast.  A nice, cool day for riding, and not the city and weekend traffic, what a joy.

Morning fog along PCH near Morro Bay, CA

Oil and wine, all in the same valley, along Hwy 101

Enjoying the beach at Redwoods State Park, CA

"What good is the warmth of the summer, without the cold of the winter to give it sweetness." - John Steinbeck, American author

Mile 4293

After a breakfast together we leave Elke's brother and his family in Long Beach, CA as they will be heading to San Diego, CA, and we head out of town on Highway 1 going North.  First we fight our way to Redondo Beach, then to Manhattan Beach, Marina del Rey, and Santa Monica.  Even though it is relatively early and Sunday, the Hwy is packed full and so we trickle along to Malibu and Oxnard, further to Ventura and Santa Barbara.  We cover the distance of close to 110 miles in record breaking four hours and are happy when the traffic turned to normal after Goleta.  From here on it was fun to follow Hwy 1, even though the road leaves the coastline at Gaviota and turns inland, just to meet the coast again at Pismo Beach.  We continue to San Louis de Obispo, CA and call it the day. We think we have the worst behind us as much as traffic is concerned, San Francisco will be another tuff one to come, but perhaps not tomorrow yet.

Street murals along Highway 1

Street murals along Highway 1

Leaving Santa Monica, CA

Point Mugu State Park, CA (above) and Pismo Beach, CA (below)

"Most Folks are as happy as they make up their minds to be." - Abraham Lincoln

Mile 4047

We leave early this morning Bishop, CA with a sky full of clouds and perfect riding temperatures.  We continue on Hwy 395 following the Eastern Sierra South to Lone Pine and Pearsonville and into Siebenthal.  Here we pick up Hwy 14 to bring us down via Mojave and Palmdale to Santa Clarita, where we pick up I-5 to San Fernando and via Burbank into Los Angeles.  Leaving Interstate I-5 in Los Angeles we cross the town on Alameda Ave to Long Beach to avoid the already starting stop and go traffic, and are happy reaching the hotel after crossing town.  I park the bike and I'm sure I won't move it again until we leave town.  A refreshing shower and some fresh clothing and we're off to meet Elke's brother and family for a joyful and pleasant evening get-together.

Leaving the Eastern Sierra (above) and Red Rock Canyon (below)

Aircraft parking lot in the dessert near Mojave, CA

We are going sightseeing.  Today we will explore some parts of LA with pure muscle power, we are taking bicycles.  Picking up our bikes in West Hollywood, we get guided to climb the hills of, ..., Beverly Hills, and "Oh" and "Ah" the villas of the rich and famous.  Climbing through Beverly Hills is no easy task, and I envy those you have e-bikes.  Anyway, strong will and determination bring us to the top of the hills, and the descend down to Santa Monica is so much sweater.  We pedal along the beach to Venice Beach, further to Marina Del Rey, before turning back into the city through Ingelwood and Culver City, back into West Hollywood.  When we reach the rental station we are all exhausted, sore on the bud, and convinced that even though it is a great way to explore the city, it is not something we want to repeat too often.

Century City (formerly 20th Century Fox Studios)

Greystone Mansion (above and below)

Private Art Collections

Santa Monica Beach

Muscle Beach, ... and yes, he, and he, were also here

Freedom Barber Shop at the Veteran's Affairs Administration campus, L.A.

Tomorrow we'll be leaving Los Angeles and turn the bike North, following the Pacific Coastal Highway, Hwy 1/101.  We both look forward to this stretch of our trip, all the big city stuff is nice but we now have enough of it, time to move on.  We did an easy day today, did some more sightseeing around Long Beach, the obligatory laundry visit, and some hanging around, besides a visit to the Aquarium of the Pacific here in Long Beach.

Aquarium of the Pacific, Long Beach (above) and Queen Mary Hotel Ship (below)

"I think the true test of a pop song, for me, and I've talked to a lot of other writers about this, is you take your demo, you pop it in your car and you drive down Sunset Blvd. to Santa Monica, and that's the Hollywood car test." - Ryan Tedder, American song writer and singer